For the 107th Independence Day reception and ball, Estonia's First Lady, Mrs. Sirje Karis, wore a stunning ensemble designed by Lilli Jahilo. The design celebrates Estonian heritage, drawing inspiration from the traditional use of white in folk costumes.

“I’ve been fascinated by the use of white in Estonian national costumes for years,” says Jahilo. “The way the fabric patterns and textures pop against the white, the subtle decorative techniques, and how the white emphasizes the garment's clean lines—it's all captivating. The fine craftsmanship and details only become apparent upon closer examination. White evokes a sense of peace, balance, and even celebration—something we all need right now. That's what inspired this design.”

Lilli Jahilo is known for her Nordic minimalist and modernly feminine style, always prioritizing thoughtful design, premium quality, and perfect fit. This outfit, created at her atelier, showcases exceptional craftsmanship through collaboration with the best artisans in Estonia’s rich handicraft sector. The outfit's uniqueness lies in its entirely hand-crafted nature, underscoring the vitality of Estonia’s handicraft traditions.

The fabric for the dress and shawl was hand-woven by Eva-Liisa Kriis, one of Estonia's legendary weaving specialists. The exquisite quality is evident in the sheer detail: the shawl uses 1000 warp threads, while the dress fabric employs 2700. Both are woven from incredibly fine, natural white combed wool.

The shawl's design incorporates elements from Mrs. Karis' ancestral home in Järvamaa County. Inspired by traditional Järvamaa bobbin lace, the crocheted border, created by renowned crochet and knitting pattern designer Ruta Tännav, features over 800 meticulously crafted stitches along its six-meter length. This innovative pattern subtly echoes the rhythms of historical laces.

The shawl’s white embroidery, inspired by 19th-century Järvamaa folk costumes (as seen in the Järvamaa Museum and Estonian National Museum collections), was executed by master embroiderer Kadi Vingisaar. She used stem and satin stitches, along with four different surface stitches for a striking three-dimensional effect.

Copper beads, crafted by jeweler Eero Nõmm in Hiiumaa and silver-plated at Roman Tavast's workshop, add a final touch of elegance to the embroidery.

Complementing the ensemble is jewelry by Kärt Summatavet, which seamlessly blends ancient traditions with a modern aesthetic.

Crafting Elegance: A Behind-the-Scenes Look

A harmonious blend of tradition and modern elegance: The video below reveals the making of this unique and timeless design.

Click here to watch the reel.