Lilli Jahilo x Merike Estna at Venice Art Biennale
At the 61st International Art Exhibition – La Biennale di Venezia, Estonian artist Merike Estna and designer Lilli Jahilo will debut a new fashion collection created in collaboration as part of Estna’s exhibition The House of Leaking Sky, presented at the Estonian Pavilion, located at Patronato Salesiano Leone XIII, Venice. Worn by Estna throughout the Biennale, the collection forms an integral part of the exhibition and will be available via online pre-order from the May 4th 2026.
The House of Leaking Sky is conceived as a live, durational work in which Estna paints daily in public view, gradually building a monumental painting across twenty-two canvases. As the work unfolds, it foregrounds time, process and the conditions of making, while Estna wears garments designed by Jahilo, making her appearance part of the work itself, with different looks from the collection revealed throughout the exhibition.
Jahilo, who trained at the Chanel Atelier Lesage in Paris, is known for her distinctly feminine aesthetic and focus on dresses, and has created garments for the Swedish royal family. Founded in Tallinn in 2010, her eponymous label is defined by an artisanal, atelier-based approach and a made-to-measure philosophy, grounded in craftsmanship and responsible production. She has followed Estna’s artistic development over many years, reflecting her ongoing engagement with contemporary art. The collaboration also aligns with the brand’ broader focus on female empowerment within her practice.
Developed in close dialogue, the collection reflects Estna’s vision of how she wanted to feel while working, balancing strength and femininity. Rather than something purely functional, the garments are conceived as festive and dignified, responding to the performative and ritual nature of the work. They foreground Estna’s vision of a femininity that is deliberate and commanding rather than soft or decorative, using the power of clothing to create confidence and presence within the space.
The collaboration also reflects a shared personal moment, with both Estna and Jahilo becoming mothers in the past year. This informs the wider framework of the project, including the relationship between creative and domestic work and the role of care, repetition and maintenance within both artistic practice and daily life.
Comprising around 22 looks and 30–40 pieces, the collection centres on predominantly black dresses and white collars drawn from Estna’s visual language. Red pieces, including a corset and a manteau, act as focal points within the collection, punctuating the monochrome palette while also introducing historical references. This use of colour creates a deliberate tension, drawing on black’s long-standing associations with authority and male dress, while reworking it through a distinctly feminine silhouette and structure.
Each look is conceived almost as a work in itself, with strong forms and an emphasis on layering that echoes Estna’s painting process. Garments can be combined, adapted and reconfigured across the duration of the performance. Designed with a trans-seasonal sensibility, the collection responds to the full span of the Biennale from spring through to autumn. This is reflected in the fabrics, which include cotton seersucker and broderie anglaise for the warmer months, alongside quilted satins and moiré for cooler temperatures, with velvet, mikado and lace also appearing throughout the collection. The collection also revisits some of Jahilo’s most recognisable silhouettes, including the Bennett dress and Orion manteau.
The collaboration also extends to merchandise, including collars and accessories such as scrunchies upcycled from leftover fabrics from the collection, as well as garments for exhibition staff that draw on the form of the artist’s painting robes. Developed in close dialogue with Estna, these elements reflect the material world of the pavilion and reinforce the connection between the artist’s practice, the space and its wider presentation.
The House of Leaking Sky by Merike Estna is curated by Natalia Sielewicz and commissioned by the Estonian Centre for Contemporary Art (CCA). The 61st International Art Exhibition – La Biennale di Venezia runs from 6 May to 22 November 2026.
Shop the collection HERE.
Press release by Sutton PR Agency
Photo: Evert Palmets/ Kaasaegse Kunsti Eesti Keskus